I couldn’t test the actual functionality at this point until everything else was done, which is annoying but unavoidable. Here is a quick list of useful links you may find useful: Now the research phase is over and the components have arrived, we can look at the components in detail. As a result I haven’t used the board, or written my own firmware for it. I wanted to preserve the beautiful gleam of the copper for as long as can and so I lacquered the plates. Covers just about everything like the Iris, Quefrency, Sinc, BDN9, and more! Solder the LEDs and micro controllers onto the PCBs. The choice of switch will likely have an effect on the switch plates I can mount them to, the PCBs that support them, and an onset of other side effects for the build (such as build height, usable keycaps, and more). Solder the resistors, TRRS jack, and diodes onto the PCBs. Just solder in your switches and you're done! 1.1 Summary of this Manual 2.0 IRIS Kit describes the contents of the IRIS kit and how to install the necessary drivers and software 3.0 Conduct a 3-D Measurement walks through the steps of setting up an IRIS kit and conducting a Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. Jekyll, with the Folio Theme from JekyllThemes.io and is hosted on Github. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. Ideally the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn’t supported in the rev 2. Then the waiting game begins as you must keep an eye on this to ensure no dirt settles on the sticky surface, and reapply a new coating every 15 minutes or so. I didn’t take comprehensive photos, because tbh I was mainly spending my brainwaves making sure I didn’t screw something up, ha! 4.) The build guide advises to perform this step after installing the switches. The last of the switches, it's looking good! Faith in my soldering is not ideal but necessary and falls into that uncomfortable space of problems that are fiddly to get right and outright unpleasant to adjust in small increments. Posted on 2019, Jun 16. Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. It is possible to have worked on the software without caps however the week was up and I was going on holiday :-) This time didn’t account for months of research required and months to deliver the components but I consider that to be a constant factor in most builds of this scale. This involved cloning the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK toolbox. I gave myself a week to build the board, and write the software. Lastly I soldered on the rest of the switches. Next I had to consider the aesthetics of the board, notably by choosing a switch plate. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. To get a consistent fold, I used the acrylic base as an edge against which to fold the components over. To test the LEDs I rigged together a simple circuit using a 5V rail from an Arduino, a resistor, and an LED. My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Now that the small components were soldered on it was time to mount the switches. So some of the components such as the PCB will likely come pre-made to make this build possible. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. There are a number of options for the firmware powering the ErgoDox keyboard, each with their own sets of features and options. Firmware Guide. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. I’m at that stage of my career where I’m starting to optimise my work-flow so I can focus on the tasks that need the real attention. Last but not least I’d like to thank the folks in the hardware lab at work who helped me solder and debug my board. iris keyboard. Other than that, the keyboard works like a charm! The Iris Ice Project is a build of the Iris keyboard with custom made case composed of a 3D printed switch top plate, a translucent laser cut acrylic middle plate and a brushed still bottom plate. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. Iris build pics. What followed was a few months of designing and testing a new tenting system to mod onto the iris case files provided by keeb.io (original seller of the iris keyboard. Pictured is the final look of the board, and the USB cable with a broken header on it. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. This means the build should be well planned out, and more importantly actionable within the time I have. As with most custom builds the costs rack up quickly and so heavy emphasis was placed on testing components before fitting them. Finding the best layout can be a continual work in progress, but I’m happy with the layout so far. Learn how to assemble various keyboards from Keebio. When fitting the keycaps the USB header snapped off. Within 30 minutes of use the header (and traces) had snapped off! Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. A build guide for compiling and customizing your firmware is best found in the repo’s readme The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. Learn Isis' skills, stats and more. Do not leave it 24 hours to re-apply in hot conditions as this will cause the lacquer to flake off, and you do not want to have to clean it off! At this point it’s day 5 of the build and the end is in sight! Iris build pics. Layout of the components at the start of the build. The choice of PCB informed the rest of the design and in particular the switch plate. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. Further I don’t use most of the keys on standard size boards, and this adds travel time for the rare occassion I do. If I were to work with untreated metals again, I would ensure they are treated professionally before use. Total key count: 54 3646×2247 iris keyboard [image source reddit] Where to Buy. Right half PCB Items needed for Build: 1. A couple people (literally two, haha) asked to see my Iris build log. As is self-evident by the title I settled on an Iris split keyboard with a brushed copper switch plate, Zealios v2 67g tactile switches, and DSA profile PBT plastic keycaps in an off-white/grey. This build is specced out as follows: Additionally I never installed the LED under glow strip and I’m debating whether the build really needs it. I simply tested that the LEDs turned on. On one hand I wanted something practical with no flex, but on the other hand it had to look nice (as all custom boards must!). 2, since they all have in-switch LED support.!!! Iris Plate Kit 3. My vortex race 3, rocking cherry MX clears and a granite keyset as standard. This suggests I may prefer I mid-sized board with a higher number of modifiers and layers within range of the home row. I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. I went with an open-side design and an acrylic base for the board so I could show off the circuitry underneath. This simple test caught a few dud LEDs, and gave me an idea of how bright these diodes were. It is a high quality piece of kit and I suspect it will help my productivity substantially, if not minimising RSI. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. 2 Build Guide . Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. In these cases it's good to add more solder if you can. Instead I aim to build a board which is essentially cut in half so I can adjust the angle of use as much as I need. This process was repeated for the resistors too. I’ve been experimenting with ergonomic set-ups and the wonders of mechanical keyboards, and so I decided to build my own! Additionally there are plenty of Iris build guides, which is valuable given the time constraints of this build (here, here, here). Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. This board would be portable (at 75% in size like the race 3) to work with my laptop and would fit into a mahogany case with a removable lid so I can use it on the go. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. The working right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other one. 4 Keyboard with 54 keys. They top a great build! Let’s look into the iris PCBs first to set the stage on why I went with this form factor. 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