The door latch can come out of alignment from use. The diagnostics show lights B and C blinking, which points to the inlet water value. The pump no longer runs when I turn on the washer. On a hunch that it related to the door switch, I took the door apart and checked the switch. Like many appliances, your dishwasher requires the door to be both closed fully and latched in order to perform a wash cycle. Your dishwasher door may also be the problem. According to what I read, the float switch is in series with the intake valve, so triggering the switch should shut the valve. If the lock is faulty, broken or worn, it does not remain closed. This is located under the unit. This can be found easily at your local hardware store. I also like the switch as a scape goat because it's the cheapest thing I can replace. If the dishwasher sounds like it has a motor/pump movement, then the dishwasher was likely just stuck … I have a Bosch SHX57C05UC dishwasher. What you hear "running" when you turn it on is actually the drain pump, it get activated when the flood switch is tripped. Symptom #1: the tablet gets stuck in the handle area shown as A, see picture at the right. Now none of the butto … read more User related causes are because the racks are not in properly or something like a pan or cooking utensil is preventing the door shutting. Here’s a guideline to some Bosch dishwasher error codes: E0– this will be displayed when no fault codes are recorded E01 or E1– this indicates a heating issue E2– problems with the temperature sensor have been located E3– not filling w… I’m looking for some confirmation that a bad intake valve would cause what I’m seeing before I pull the washer out of the wall to go any further. Bosch dishwasher e6 error code. The reason I’m not convinced is that pressing any other buttons causes all kinds of odd effects. If you are having trouble with locking the door to your dishwasher, then you might need to replace the faulty door lock. I struggle to see how that can be anything other than a bad door switch. But part defects or malfunction and a lack of regular maintenance can leave you with a dishwasher door that becomes exceedingly difficult to latch close. P1 is the only option that’s useful. If the strike plate is out of alignment, the door will not close properly. Being connected to the water (with the shunt in place) did not change whether the washer is willing to run. A worn-out seal, for example, will leave a puddle on your kitchen floor. What I think happens is that dried up detergent sticks to the plastic around the opening of the dispenser. I turned the breaker back on so I could run the diagnostic tests (which I had just found), and I can’t tell if it’s giving me something useful or not. I pulled out the washer this afternoon, took it completely apart, cleaned everything out, and put it back together. Trying to open the door, it falls into the open wide position under the action of the gravitational force. Bad sign. I finally got some time to dig a little deeper. DO NOT press Quick when the display shows P0 or P3. The switch is officially exonerated. Aside from the part where it won't start, the UI is behaving perfectly normally, which seems very misleading. That was indeed one of the issues, but the pan is now dry, and it's still not happy. It looked like enough to be blocking water flow. Open the door just enough to reach the buttons. An E6 error code of the Bosch dishwasher means that there are problems with the sensor that controls the water turbidity. With the power on, there’s 120VAC across the solenoid, regardless of whether the washer is trying to start a cycle or in cancel/drain mode. We welcome your comments and Rearrange items in the dishwasher so that they do not block the door … Dishwasher door would not close. At this point, I’ve run out of rope with my wife, so we’re off to buy a new washer. The strike plate is located on the dishwasher itself and is the part that the dishwasher door latch grabs onto to when it's closed. Terms — I'm full of questions (or something) because parts for this model are stupid expensive, and I'm trying to avoid dumping hundreds of dollars into parts just to find out there's a control board failure. Well there are several issues here. (Tripping the switch causes the posts to swap, as expected.). Turn power off to d/w. I didn’t give it the chance, but I’m will to bet it merrily would have overflowed. Valve solenoid while it was running today, it went back to completely ignoring the switch... May have blown or a circuit board replacement could it be that the washer always thinks the firmly. 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